Comfortably settled in ClubAcela, the first-class lounge at New York's Penn Station, I considered the folder of Amtrak sleeping car tickets much as I would money in the bank: a promise of good times ahead. I would travel on the Lake Shore Limited to Chicago, the Empire Builder to Seattle and, finally, the Coast Starlight to Los Angeles. These trains, two of Amtrak's best and one of its most improved, would show me a huge slice of America for the next week.
During my 3,582-mile journey in March, the scenically mundane mixed in with the magnificent, and that was fine with me. There were books to read, people to meet, naps to take. Both urban and small-town America scrolled past my windows, along with less-peopled spaces in between. The most spectacular — the Hudson River, the Rockies and the Cascades, Puget Sound, the Pacific — proved unforgettable.
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